How to sew the armpit of a jacket

How To Sew The Armpit Of A Jacket – 10 Easiest Tips

Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts. It will keep away stress, and loneliness from you. There are a lot of formulas for sewing. You can’t deny the existence of sewing decade by decade. To sew the armpit of a jacket needs some simple basic trick to follow. It seems very intimidating. But there is no other way to fix the jacket’s armpit without sewing. I know that you have a lot of questions about to fix the armpit issue of the jacket. I will clear up all your confusion about the issue.

So how to sew the armpit of a jacket? To sew a jacket’s armpit, you need to cut out the jacket’s pattern and ensure that it has two several pieces for each side of the armpit area. While that is the most basic way of describing how to do it, I will be helping you with a step-by-step guide on how to exactly do it and answer other related questions related to jacket armpits!

Key Takeaways

Understanding Gusset and How It Works on Jacket Armpit

Understanding gusset and how it works on jacket armpit
Understanding gusset and how it works on jacket armpit

Gusset is an important part of sewing your armpit or any other thing. Gusset is a piece of material that is used to fix armpit holes in your jacket. This is a fabric that is inserted into your seam to allow for your comfort, a perfect shape, and reinforcement to your jacket. You can make a gusset of any shape. Suppose, your armpit has been ripped in a circle shape or you see some hole in your armpit. Then you can easily make a gusset in a triangular shape or diamond shape. Remember, a gusset could be only in these two shapes. So, you have to make your ripped armpit into these two shapes. So, first, you need to make your home or ripped area in these two shapes. Then simply make a gusset and fix your armpit hole or ripped area.

Importance of Gusset to fix Armpit issues

Importance of gusset to fix armpit issues

There is a lot of importance of gusset. I am going to inform you about those benefits now:

  1. Increase the breadth of your armpit.
  2. Fixing armpit-related issues. Such as a ripped armpit, holes in the armpit, and so on.
  3. Stretch your fabric for comfortable movement.
  4. Bring reinforcement to your jacket.

How to Fix Armpit’s Hole?

How to fix armpit’s hole
How to fix armpit’s hole

There are many types of armpit holes. Sometimes, you may have one hole or many holes in your jacket’s armpit. There are two methods of fixing the holes in your armpit. So, let’s discuss those methods and try to fix the issue by yourselves.

The two methods are:

  • Diamond Shaped gusset
  • Triangular Shaped gusset

So, you can fix your armpit’s hole with these two types of gussets. First, you need to detect the hole in your armpit then insert the gusset into your ripped area. Now, you will learn about the working process of these two.

Diamond shape gusset

Diamond shape gusset
Diamond shape gusset

You already came to know that, a diamond shape gusset is basically used for fixing a large hole in your armpit.

I will let you know how you can fix the large hole in the armpit step by step.

  • Step 1: Detect the holes in your jacket.
  • Step 2: Trim the excess threads to create a solid diamond shape.
  • Step 3: Zigzag stitch all the way around the diamond shape you have made.
  • Step 4: Insert the diamond-shaped gusset to refill those holes in your armpit.
  • Step 5: Stitch the patch properly to insert the gusset perfectly.

Triangular shape gusset

Triangular shape gusset
Triangular shape gusset

This method is used for fixing small holes in the armpit. The working process is almost the same as a diamond-shaped gusset. But there are some basic differences between the working method.

  • Cut off excess thread from the hole
  • Open up the sleeve seam at least one inch on each side.
  • Create a perfect triangular shape in your armpit.
  • Insert the triangular gusset in the armpit in the right position.
  • Stitch the patch of the edges of the hole and leave 5/6” seam allowance.

10 Ways of Sewing Armpit of a Jacket.

In the previous discussion, you get to know about how to fix armpit holes. Now It’s time to know to fix the ripped armpit of your jacket. There are a lot of ways to fix your ripped armpit. This is not that complicated.

To sew perfectly you have to have some tools to sew.

  • Cloths to match the jacket
  • Scissors
  • Measuring Tape
  • Needle and thread
  • Sewing machine.

And here are the stitches you need.

10 Ways of sewing armpit of a jacket.
  1. Running Stitch: Use a basic running stitch to fix the ripped armpit. A basic running stitch is a basic stitch in hand sewing. When the armpit of your jacket got ripped in a small range then you can use the running stitch. Even, if you don’t have a sewing machine to fix the armpit, you can simply use the running stitch to fix the problem.
  2. Backstitch: Backstitch is also a hand-sewing form like a running stitch. But it’s a little better than running stitch. It will create a strong and more secure seam in your jacket’s armpit. Actually, it is sewn one stitch length backward from the front and two stitch lengths forward from the reverse side. It even works fast than running a stitch. So, you can use a backstitch instead of a running stitch to fix the ripped armpit of a jacket.
  3. Whipstitch: This is another basic sewing form. You can fix your armpit by doing a whip stitch. If you don’t have a sewing machine, then you can fix the armpit of your jacket temporarily. Simply, sew the edges of the armpit ripped areas by making diagonal stitches along the fabric.
  4. Zigzag stitch: It is the best stitch for sewing the armpit of your jacket. When you insert a diamond-shaped gusset, you need to use a zigzag stitch all the way around your diamond to prevent your jacket from unraveling more. It is the most used stitch to keep away your jacket from ripping and other issues.
  5. Invisible Mending: Invisible mending is another form of slip stitch and hidden stitch. You can sew your armpit by hand sewing. It is a kind of technique that connects fabric edges without showing on the right side of the fabric. So, if your jacket’s armpit got ripped then you can easily use the invisible mending method to fix your jacket. It is also suitable for most fabrics like cotton, silk, and so on fabrics.
  6. Flat-felled seam: This is also used for repairing the armpit of a jacket. It has various uses. It is used on jeans and jackets as well. When your jacket’s armpit got to be ripped then you can fix the problem by using a flat-felled seam. It helps to connect the seam of your armpit and also fix the issues of holes in your armpit. It is a bit different than other stitches. That’s why I will explain all the steps to complete the flat-felled seam.
    • Finish one side: You need to finish one side seam first. You can use a zigzag stitch to complete that.
    • Sew the seam: Sew the seam with your regular sewing machine with your desired seam allowance.
    • Trim: Trim down the seam allowance this time.
    • Press to the side: Press the finished seam allowance over the trimmed seam allowance to check that there are no wrinkles and the seam is open and smooth as well.
    • Stitch: Stitch the seam all around to the end of the finishing edge. This is how you can sew any damaged part of your jacket by using a flat-felled stitch.
  7. French Seam: French seams are sewn twice actually. Though it is sewing twice in one fabric, it will give you a perfect finish to your fabric. It is also used worldwide to fix armpit-ripping issues. It has some simple steps as the flat-felled seam. Such as:
    • Firstly, align and pin the seam.
    • You will apply a machine stitch at half the seam allowance.
    • Iron the excess seam allowance.
    • Fold the seam for enclosing the raw edge of your jacket.
    • Pin the fold to keep your seam in place.
    • Sew at half the total seam allowance in your fabric.
    • Finally, you need to iron the final seam on one side.
  8. Patching: If the tear or hole is too large to repair then you can patch it by sewing a fabric over the damaged area of your jacket’s armpit. So, patching is not that popular but it’s very effective to repair any damage to the armpit on your jacket.
  9. Fusible Web: This is another commanding way to fix any holes in your jacket’s armpit. You should not use that all the time. If the damage is not that bigger or you have noticed some small holes in your armpit, then you can use the fusible web to fix it.
  10. Darning: For smaller holes, use darning techniques by weaving thread back and it is also able to prevent damage and close the gap.

So, you already got 10 ways to sew the armpit of your jacket. Keep aware while sewing and detect the issue then select the best possible way to sew your jacket’s armpit.

Tips For Sewing An Armpit Of A Jacket Properly

I have discussed already all the ways of sewing the armpit of your jacket. But all the way will be valueless until I am giving you the tips to complete sewing properly. It is very important to pay attention to the following tips to ensure a professional finish.

  1. Preparation: Get prepared to start sewing. You have to gather all the necessary materials including thread, needle, scissors etc. Then you need to detect the holes or tears in the armpit of your jacket.
  2. Pinning: Pin the armpit area of the jacket and then align the edges accurately. Pinning helps you to hold the jacket in place and prevent your jacket from any movements. If your jacket is moving around while sewing, it will definitely be a frustrating fact for you. So pinning before starting sewing can make your experience far better.
  3. Turn the jacket inside out: Turning the jacket inside out will help you to access the damaged area more fluently. Then you can detect the actual damage quantity. Depending on the damage quantity you can easily sew your damaged armpit.
  4. Thread your needle: If you detect more tears or holes in your jacket, you should double-thread your needle. Even, if the fabric of your jacket is thick enough then a single-threaded needle is not enough to sew it.
  5. Trim excess Thread: You have to trim the excess thread to fix your armpit. Extra thread causes an unprofessional finish which is not looking that better. To avoid any inconvenience in your jacket you have to cut off the extra thread from your fabric.
  6. Check your repairing progression: After completing each round you should check the progress. I mean you should check that, is the sewing is going well or not. If you have noticed any problem, then you can solve it immediately. But, if you are sewing in the wrong pattern from the beginning then you have to change the pattern from the very beginning. So, you have to give your double afford here.


What is the best stitch for a hole in the armpit?

The best stitch for repairing holes in your jacket’s armpit is the Zigzag stitch.

What is the easiest stitch for fixing the armpit’s tear and holes?

The most used and easiest stitch is the Basic running stitch. You can easily fix any holes or tears by using this stitch. You can do it by hand. No need for a sewing machine as well.

How to make a gusset?

Gusset could be in 2 shapes. One is a Diamond shape and the other is a triangular shape. It’s made of fabric. So cut the fabric in triangular or diamond shape. And simply insert it to the damaged area of your armpit.

Final Thought

Sewing the armpit of a jacket is not as easy as sewing a normal fabric. So, you have to be careful and wise enough to sew the armpit. It is a very common issue to rip in your armpit. Many people are facing many confusions at that time. They thought that it is not easy to fix or it is not going to fix any day. But, I think that I have cleared the misconception of you. Just follow those instructions and the tips I have mentioned. I think you can easily sew by yourselves from the very next day with your own hand. You don’t need to waste your money to fix your jacket’s armpit. I know that, in the beginning, you cannot fix it like a professional. You will improve day by day. There is no other way of being hard-working and persevering. Nothing is easy in this world. You just need to make it easier for you. And to make it easy you have to follow my steps and select any method you like to apply for fixing your jacket’s armpit.


Hey I’m Sherry Howes an expert in sewing, knitting, crocheting, and embroidery. With a passion for fiber arts and a talent for crafting, I Have spent years improving my skills and sharing knowledge with others. Whether teaching a class or creating a new project, I’m always excited to share my love of crafting with the world. I like researching new techniques and trends in the crafting arts community.

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